What Does Full Grain Leather Look Like and Its Characteristics
Full grain leather is distinguished by its natural markings and imperfections, which many consider to enhance its charm.
- As the strongest and outermost layer of the hide, full grain leather retains the complete grain structure without being sanded for a uniform appearance. This inherent durability enables full grain leather to last significantly longer. Over time, it develops a patina, a desirable change in color that occurs more rapidly in untreated items.
- The smooth, untouched surface allows for the visibility of pores and tiny hair follicles (when examined with a magnifying glass), indicating the leather’s high quality.
- Additional notable features include fat wrinkles, growth lines, natural grain texture variations, shading, and minor scars and scratches.
- Importantly, each hide is unique; it originates from different animals, each with distinct markings and blemishes. Consequently, one will observe that no two hides of full grain leather are identical.
What Does Full Grain Leather Upper Mean?
Full grain leather uppers refer specifically to the portions of footwear, such as boots or shoes, that are crafted from full grain leather. The term ‘leather upper’ designates the part above the sole.
Where Does Full Grain Leather Come From?
Full grain leather is derived from the skin layer just beneath the hair, specifically from the outermost layer of the hide, which contributes to its increased durability due to the tightly interwoven structure of its fibers.
- Sources of full grain leather include goats, pigs, sheep, and even exotic animals such as alligators, ostriches, and kangaroos. However, cattle skin is the most prevalent material used in leather production.
- All products on our website labeled as full grain leather are exclusively sourced from cow hides.
How is Full Grain Leather Made?
The process of leather-making involves three primary stages: preparation, tanning, and crusting. A fourth step may include the application of a surface coating or finish.
Preparation:
During the preparation phase, the animal skin or hide undergoes several treatments, including:
- Preservation to prevent decay.
- Soaking for cleaning and rehydration.
- Liming, which removes proteins and natural fats using an alkali solution.
- Removal of hair and subcutaneous materials.
- Splitting the hide into layers, resulting in full grain (top layer) and the corium layer, which yields ‘genuine’ leather and suede.
- Additional liming and de-liming to eliminate excess proteins and chemicals.
- Bating, which introduces proteolytic proteins to soften the pelt.
- Slicking, which physically removes inner fat.
- Bleaching and pickling to lower pH for better penetration of tanning agents, followed by de-pickling to raise pH for enhanced penetration of additional tanning agents.
Tanning:
The tanning process transforms raw hide into a stable material, allowing it to dry into a flexible form and preventing decay. Various tanning methods exist, with chromium and vegetable dye (free of Chrome VI) being the most commonly used materials.
- Hides are placed in a drum with tanning liquor and rotated slowly for soaking.
- Once uniform penetration is achieved, pH levels are gradually increased in a process called basification, which fixes the tanning material to the leather.
Crusting:
In the crusting phase, the tanned hides are thinned, re-tanned, and lubricated. This stage often involves coloring, with the primary goal of drying and softening the hides.
The leather may also undergo a finishing process through:
- Oiling
- Brushing
- Padding
- Spraying
- Buffing
- Embossing
- Glazing
These techniques are applied if the leather requires finishing; for instance, patent leather receives a glossy, shiny finish.
What is Pebbled Leather?
Pebbled leather features a pebbled texture embossed onto its surface, primarily for cosmetic purposes to conceal natural surface flaws.
What is Burnished Leather?
Burnished leather undergoes a finishing technique that smooths the leather through pressure and friction, resulting in a darker, antiqued hue. Edges are often burnished using metal tools, such as a spinning disk.
What is Oiled Full Grain Leather?
Oiled leather has been treated with oils, such as raw (un-emulsified) oil or a blend of raw and emulsified oils with a penetrating aid. This treatment hydrates the leather, enhancing flexibility and water resistance. This process is often associated with full grain aniline leathers.
What is Tumbled Full Grain Leather?
Tumbling is a process that softens leather by placing it in a drum, resulting in a more pronounced grain and smoother surface.
How to Maintain Full Grain Leather
Full grain leather requires relatively low maintenance. For our bags, we recommend occasional wiping with a cloth to prevent dust accumulation. The most critical aspect of maintaining full grain leather is proper storage. Avoid placing leather products near radiators or using hair dryers, as this can dry out the leather.
To keep the leather soft, store it in a humidity-controlled environment of approximately 40-50% to retain essential moisture.
Numerous products are available online for cleaning, waterproofing, and conditioning leather, all of which are effective in maintaining your product’s quality. While embracing the natural aging of leather is appealing, investing in a suitable leather cleaning product or conditioner (extra virgin olive oil is a viable alternative) can help keep the leather soft and supple. Simply rub the product into the leather’s surface, akin to moisturizing your skin, allowing it to absorb into the pores. This practice also prevents stiffness and dryness.
Please Note:
Always conduct a patch test with a new leather care product on an inconspicuous area before full application, as some products may alter the leather’s color in an undesirable manner.
How to Protect Full Grain Leather?
Leather protectants and sealants coat the top layer of the skin, helping retain natural oils and moisture for suppleness. Applying polish is a matter of personal preference, but it can provide additional protection against everyday dirt and grease.
How Long Does Full Grain Leather Last?
Full grain leather is exceptionally durable, typically lasting five times longer than fabric, depending on proper care and usage.
How Thick is Full Grain Leather?
The thickness of full grain leather varies based on the manufacturing process and intended use. Tanned hides are often split into two or more sheets, influencing the final thickness. The strength of full grain leather derives from its tightly interwoven fiber structure rather than its thickness. Lower-quality leather cuts feature a looser fiber structure, rendering them significantly less durable.
Full Grain Leather Versus Corrected Leather
While full grain leather represents the outermost layer of the hide, featuring its natural epidermis and blemishes, corrected grain leather is top grain leather that has been ‘corrected’ through buffing and sanding to eliminate surface imperfections such as brand marks, healed scars, or insect bites. It is then stamped or embossed with an artificial grain. Corrected grain appears much smoother and more uniform but is of lower quality and has a more synthetic appearance and feel.
Calfskin Leather
Calfskin leather, derived from younger calves, presents a smoother texture with fewer markings and blemishes. It is thin and exhibits a smooth appearance with a fine grain, while still offering durability due to its tightly interwoven fiber structure. Calfskin retains its shape well and is waterproof; however, it is less durable than full grain cowhide due to its thinner and lighter nature.
Bonded or Blended Leather
Bonded, or blended, leather is produced by processing leather scraps into sheets that are then adhered together. It is embossed to create an artificial grain and is considered low-quality, significantly less durable than full grain leather. Unlike full grain, bonded leather does not develop a patina over time and is challenging to repair.
Full Grain/Top Grain Leather Versus Split
Hides are initially split into two layers: the top/grain layer and the split layer. The grain layer is used to create full grain, top grain, corrected grain, and nubuck leather; it typically lasts longer, is stronger, and ages better than split leather. Split leather features a looser fiber structure and is often given a printed texture to imitate grain leather, making it suitable for suede production.
Full Grain Versus Genuine Leather
The term ‘genuine leather’ can mislead consumers; although it is made from real leather, it typically consists of lower-quality split leather, which is weaker than full grain leather. Many consumers mistakenly equate ‘genuine leather’ with high quality, but this is often inaccurate. Full grain leather, derived from the top layer of the hide, is regarded as the highest quality leather.
Suede and Nubuck
Suede and nubuck leather share similarities, both undergoing an abrasion process to create their velvety nap. However, distinctions in quality exist: nubuck leather is sourced from the grain layer of a hide, making it tougher and slightly more water-resistant than suede, which is derived from the split layer and is weaker due to its looser fiber structure. Consequently, the nap on suede is not as fine as that on nubuck leather. Compared to full grain leather, both suede and nubuck exhibit different textures and appearances as a result of the abrasion process and are also less durable.
